An update on March 12: I am behind in keeping this blog up to date. There's been a lot going on this past week and I have focused my free time elsewhere. I can't post for the next day or so since we are getting ready to leave New Zealand for the long trip home. In the meantime, I invite you to read Heinrich's blog of all of the geothermal activity we saw in Rotorua up until March 9. His entry for March 4 is below. I will be back in a few days!
We woke up to a sunny but cold day. The temperature was below 50 and it felt like fall. After eating Shami's wonderful breakfast we headed out to our first geothermal trip for the week at Waiotapu.
We immediately headed to the view point for Waiotapu Geyser to see if there was a possibility that it might erupt. But the geyser was dry. There was no need to wait there, so we decided to go see the daily morning soaping of Lady Knox Geyser.
The experience at Lady Knox was underwhelming with the entire geyser eruption lasting only a little over a minute, and the sounds of the eruption were drowned out by the guide singing a song. Also some very rude Germans thought they could stand directly in front of us to watch the geyser, and when we asked them to move, they proceeded to squeeze right next to me on the bench so I had barely enough room to move. And I had a pretty bad view of the geyser for photos since a railing was directly blocking my view of part of the vent. So I will not post a video now but will have a link later when Heinrich uploads his much better video.
Waiotapu Geyser vent view from the overlookStanding room only crowd at Lady KnoxLady Knox Geyser steaming ligtly after the eruption
After the eruption we followed the long line of cars back to the main entrance and walked back to check on Waiotapu Geyser again. There was no change. We waited a while to see if some water might appear in the vent, but nothing happened. It was still cold outside, and the wind chill made it feel even colder. At that point I had enough and decided to walk back to the car. Heinrich wanted to stay longer, which was okay with me: I would just rest for a while and return later if he called me about any improvement.
I took my time walking back and snapped photos of some of my favorite features along the way.
Mounds of sulfur along the trailBig chunks of sulfurChampagne Pool: New Zealand's equivalent of Grand Prismatic SpringRotokarikitea: my favorite pool in the park
Back at the car, I had a nice little nap until eventually Heinrich rejoined me. We left the park early and drove back to see the free Waiotapu mudpot which we both had enjoyed watching the night before.
A very wet mud cone at the Waiotapu mudpot
Next we drove to the Rainbow Mountain trailhead and took a short hike to the overlook to Crater Lake. This was a stop we had talked about doing on our previous visits but never really had the time. It was a nice hike, and the lake was a beautiful shade of light blue.
Crater Lake overlook
We drove back to Rotorua and stopped at the New World supermarket to stock up on food for the next few days. Then we drove back to the room and fixed a spaghetti and cole slaw dinner.
Dinner at the room
After dinner we enjoyed using the hot tub and watching the steam from the geysers at Te Puia.
The temperature was cold when we woke up, and snow had been predicted on the mountain peaks for today. The view outside of our room showed partly cloudy skies except for over the mountains which were hidden as usual.
Morning view from our roomClouds were passing quickly over Mount Ngauruhoe
We had the breakfast buffet at the lodge, which was very good, and then we packed up to leave for Rotorua. On the way out of the park we stopped to take the short Mounds Walk which had a nice view of the cloud covered mountains. We could see some bad weather in the distance, and there was a little rainbow at the viewing point at the end of the trail.
Rainbow on the Mounds WalkBad weather starting to come inView of the cloud covered Mount Ruapehu
Next we drove back to Tokaanu to see if anything had changed in the thermal area. We did see a new sputtering cone near the entrance that we hadn't noticed before. Otherwise, Taumatapuhipuhi and Hoani geysers were still quiet.
We stopped in Turangi for a gas fill up, and then we continued the drive north, following the shore of Lake Taupo. We stopped at a roadside viewpoint of the lake.
Lake Taupo, looking northLake Taupo, looking south
North of the town of Taupo, we stopped to see the Aratiatia Rapids. Four times a day in the summer there are scheduled water releases from the dam, creating a massive flood of water down the Waikato River. We were there for the 2 PM release. We decided to walk to the upper viewing point where we had a view of the flood gates and the river below. It was interesting to see the rush of water coming down and filling up consecutive pools before flooding further down river.
Aratiatia dam flood gates open to a calm river below
Aratiatia upper river flood
Aratiatia dam flood gates close
Our final stop on the way to Rotorua was the Waiotapu mud pots which were putting on a very good display this year.
Exploding mud at WaiotapuA view of some of the drier mud cones at the shore of the mud lake
We drove on to Rotorua and checked into our lodging for the next week at the Geyser Lookout B&B. We had stayed there on our previous visit in 2023 and really liked it. The back yard has a hot tub where we can see the stream rising from the nearby geyser area at Te Puia. The owners Shami and Dave remembered us. For this visit we had the larger room with a small kitchen shared with one other room. We fixed our egg and potato dinner and then relaxed for the rest of the evening.
Fog rolled in overnight, and when we woke up there was no view at all from our room. Later in the morning the weather partially cleared, but the clouds stubbornly refused to leave any of the mountain peaks. We spent the day taking some short hikes in the area.
Our first stop was the Chateau Tongariro Hotel, which closed in February 2023 after a seismic assessment deemed it a high risk. This closure had impacted us in 2023 when we were scheduled to stay in one of the cabins behind the hotel. The cabins were managed by the same company and also were closed. The timing was terrible for us since we had just arrived in New Zealand and found out less than a week before we stayed there that we would have to look elsewhere for lodging. Of course by then no other lodging was available in the area, so we had to stay a half hour drive away. It was sad to see the hotel still closed. Talks are underway to either come up with the funds to make the necessary repairs or demolish the building.
Chateau Tongariro Hotel
Next was a hike on the Ridge Walk which climbed through the forest to a nice overlook of the area. From the overlook we were able to see the valley but the big volcanoes were still completely cloud covered.
Colorful mushroom along the trailView at the top of the Ridge Walk. Chateau Tongariro is the building on the left.
The forest was much drier near the top of the walk with none of the ferns. As we descended the ferns came back into view.
Ridge Walk trail view
Ferns near the beginning of the Ridge Walk
Mossy trees along the trail
We stopped at the Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre to look at some of the exhibits. Afterwards Heinrich decided to walk back to the room, but I stayed out a bit longer.
The Visitor Centre
I took a short hike on the Silica Rapids trail, but I only went a short distance to a viewpoint along the river. The weather was starting to deteriorate with some drizzling rain.
Bridge on the Silica Rapids trail
I went on the Whakapapa Nature Walk which was a pleasant stroll through the forest, with signs identifying the various plants. Below is a sign for the Cabbage Tree.
Cabbage Tree on the Whakapapa Nature Walk
I walked back to the room, and we decided to fix an early dinner. We had a shared kitchen with the other people in the lodge, and we wanted to use the facilities before everyone else showed up.
Early dinner: sweet and sour chicken and rice
Afterwards the weather cleared and was nice for a few hours. But the volcanoes remained cloud covered. I decided to go on the hike to Taranaki Falls. We had already done this hike in 2023, but I wanted to see the waterfall again. The waterfall was flowing nicely.
Small waterfall along the trail
Taranaki FallsTaranaki Falls view from further up the trail
After I passed the waterfall, the trail looped back to the parking area near the Skotel Alpine Resort. I passed right by our room.
The forest along the trailSkotel Alpine Resort with our upper corner room in the view
I returned to the room, and we had a relaxing evening. There were some nice sunset colors from the room.