January 26, 2019
We got up at 4 AM to drive to the Backyard Tours shuttle car park. It was an easy 15-minute drive from the B and B. At 5:15 we boarded the shuttle to take us to the Mangatepopo car park where the Tongariro Alpine Crossing hike began. The weather was a little foggy and a bit cold at the trail head, but I was prepared with warm clothing, hat and gloves.
Backyard Tours did a nice operation and I would recommend them. The shuttle driver gave a Maori prayer and then sent us on our way. He offered me the use of some hiking poles. I am glad I had them. This was one badass hike: 19.4 km and about a 2,500 foot elevation gain.
The fog burned off quickly and we had amazing views along the trail: really cooperative weather. The climb to the first summit was not too bad, although we took our time and let all the younger folks run on ahead of us. The first 7 km of the trail was well graded. Once we reached the saddle we were in a wind tunnel. Then the fun began. The hike to the second summit was steep with loose gravel most of the way. With the wind trying to topple me over, I was grateful for the hiking poles.
The views at the summit were fantastic with the Red Crater and the Emerald Lakes below. The descent from the summit was worse than the climb: really steep and loose gravel everywhere. It was difficult to keep from sliding, even with the hiking poles. At that point I gave one of my poles to Heinrich to use.
At the bottom of the slope we took a side trail to get a closer look at the lakes and some fumaroles. All we were able to see was steam from the thermal activity.
The remainder of the trail descended into a valley with great views of Lake Taupo and Mount Terawera in the distance. We continued our slow but steady pace and let the majority of other hikers pass us. Yes, the trail was crowded. For the first hour we had little company, but after we took a side detour to see the Soda Springs, the other hikers caught up to us and it was a steady stream of people. Do not go on this hike if you want isolation!
We finished the hike in time to catch the 4 PM shuttle back to our car. We got a free drink, and I tried the L & P. It tastes a little like Sprite. By that time we were too tired to even think about doing anything else for the day. We drove straight back to the B and B and relaxed for the evening. Dinner was sandwiches and snacks.
The resident cat decided to pay us a visit and spent a few hours sleeping next to the door.
I was glad I did the hike! The views were worth it, and it was a great way to see the park. But I am now dealing with very sore feet.